Notes from the Basement--Part 2.4 Socks: a Slippery Slope

Socks are some of the least expensive indulgences on an absolute dollar scale. However, on a relative scale, they can be some of the most expensive on a per use basis, with a 100% cashmere sock. The basic rule is to match the sock to the trouser, but do try and avoid black socks with black shoes otherwise it looks like you're wearing a black bootie.

Sock styling I will leave entirely up to you, however, once you move beyond the standard business dress rib sock that small patterns (and even smaller patterns) such as herringbone, birdseye, and dots, are quite acceptable in conservative environments. Once you move beyond those patterns, then the quality of the sock depends entirely on the skill of the designer, and the quality of the knitting machine.

2.4.1. Sock materials

The typical materials you find for socks are cotton, cotton-nylon, (merino) wool, cashmere, cashmere-silk (sometimes with nylon); the sock material listing refers to the body of the sock, and not the elastic/stretchy cuff. You will also find some polyester/acrylic socks which are staticy and not-particularly breathable. The most impractical and indulgent material for socks is 100% cashmere, which can develop holes in as few as 1 wearing, and with a maximum expected life of 5 wearings; add to that the extra care required in hand washing them and you find that they're best left to home use. Cashmere-silk blends (70/30, or 80/20) are a much more practical, durable, and acceptable option.

Nylon isn't a particularly comfortable material, so generally you will find that the most pleasant socks are the 100% natural fibers, like a lisle cotton, superfine merino wool, silk, cashmere, or a cashmere-silk blend. However, nylon is still used in those socks at the heel, toe, and of course, the spandex will still be in the cuff (elastic/stretchy part).

Now that's it's hitting the high 90s (F) and some ridiculous amount of humidity in DC, I was unpleasantly reminded on Thursday when I was leaving Charlie Palmer's at 9pm, sock material choice matters--even if you're only outside for 5 minutes waiting for your car to be brought up front. Lisle cotton, in the narrower ribbed (6x3) knit is the preferred summer sock, as it allows a little bit more ventilation. (However, if your feet sweat, you may prefer a superfine merino wool instead--and get good cedar shoe trees, more on that later.) On the opposite end of the spectrum are cashmere/cashmere-silk socks that are the warmest socks, and provide the most cushioning.

Note: Pure/high silk content socks are completely useless for heat retention, as they're extremely thin.

2.4.2 Sock construction

The typical nylon reinforced heel and toe appeared during the depression, as sock makers responded to durability issues. Today, the more relevant issue is sock length, sizing, and quality of the knitting. The most common business sock is the narrower ribbed sock (it's called a 6x3 rib) in the standard navy/gray/black.

2.4.2.1. Sock length. An over the calf-length sock is the most practical just due to the shape of your calf, otherwise you tend to spend a lot of time hitching your socks up during the day, or using sock garters, which are a more obscure to find. Take a moment and look at your calf, if the elastic terminates at the upper end of a tapered V, it's not going to hold as well as something that goes over the widest part of the calf, and then narrows again. (That's not to say calf length socks won't fall down, it's just they won't do that as much.)

2.4.2.2. Sock sizing. Most socks are "one size fits all", which translates into "somewhere around a US size 10". I believe guys who are an US 8 or below have problems finding socks that fit, as well as those who are US 13+. I'm fortunate to have average sized feet, so I haven't run into this issue personally, but a few retailers like Nordstrom, and Ben Silver sell sized socks.

2.4.3 Sock Manufacturers

The most famous high end sock makers are Pantherella and Dore & Dore. Unfortunately, Pantherella was bought out a few years back, and while the product didn't nose dive in quality, it remains stagnant, and left an opening at the top end of the market, as quality for both Pantherella and Dore & Dore are uneven. Marcoliani, a small Italian artisan company, surpassed Pantherella a few years back from a technical/construction/materials standpoint. In addition to the artisan companies, there are smaller sock designers like V.K Nagrani that caters to the statement sock market.

Selected Sock Manufacturers
Marcoliani (available at Saks Fifth Ave)
V.K. Nagrani (www.vknagrani.com)
New & Lingwood (www.newandlingwood.com)
Pantherella (Neiman Marcus, Saks etc etc)

Sized socks:
Nordstrom (www.nordstrom.com)
Ben Silver (www.bensilver.com)

And that's it for today. Next stop will be a mega-post on shoes.